Author: Jayne Lawson

“…Lead me to the rock that is higher than I.” Psalm 61:2b

Gibraltar is an overseas territory of the United Kingdom and has been so since 1704 when the British defeated Spain in the War of Spanish Succession. Gibraltar is located on the southern tip of the Iberian Peninsula, and lies at the entrance to the Mediterranean Sea. It is a very small country (less than 3 square miles), but very diverse in its population of 30,000. The famous Rock of Gibraltar is the limestone sentinel that stands watch over the Straits of Gibraltar, the waterway link between the Atlantic Ocean and Mediterranean Sea. Located at the southernmost peak of Gibraltar, Europa Point is the “end of Europe.” From here you can see northern Africa and Spain. According to Greek legend, Hercules held on to Gibraltar, the “pillars of Hercules,” when he pulled Africa and Spain apart.

On the bottom photo, the mountains of Morocco are visible on the left, and on the right is Spain.

St. Michael’s Cave is a limestone formation with many huge stalagmites and stalactites throughout it. Illuminated by colored lights, it gives a surreal feeling to a “naturally formed” cave. The cave opens up into a huge amphitheater which is actually used for musical concerts!

Perhaps one of the most well known attractions in Gibraltar are the Barbary Apes. They are not really apes at all, but instead they are tail-less monkeys! They are actually named the Barbary Macaques. No one really knows how they got here, but there are about 250 roaming freely in Gibraltar. One unusual fact about the Barbary apes is that the fathers help care for their young! Winston Churchill is known for saying that as long as there were the monkeys on Gibraltar, it would remain in the British empire.

The Gibraltar airport has its main and only runway crossed by a city street and pedestrian walkway. The airport is considered the 4th most dangerous airport in the world because westerly winds create increased turbulence here. If after three attempts, a plane cannot land due to the turbulence, it is redirected to Malaga, Spain for landing, and the passengers are then shuttled back to Gibraltar.

Clockwise from top-left: airport control tower; standing on the runway; on runway with “The Rock” behind us; a “plane” landing

Next stop: Marseilles, France

“All the ends of the world shall remember and turn unto the LORD: and all the kindreds of the nations shall worship before thee.” Psalm 22:27

Barcelona is the beautiful capital city of Catalonia, a region of 1.7 million people. It was here that Columbus returned from the New World to meet with Queen Isabella. Barcelona is known for many things, such as the 1992 Olympics and the childhood home of Pablo Picasso.

Cathedral of Barcelona

This cathedral was built on the style of gothic architecture as shown by the pointed arches.

La Sagrada Familia

This church was designed by Gaudi, a famous Catalán architect. Construction began in 1882, and the current plan is for it to be completed in 2026. The central tower, which represents Jesus, will eventually be 110 meters tall. The nativity facade in the front of the church is the only one actually built by Gaudi

before he died. The life of Christ is depicted in the facades around the church. His birth and childhood is on the east side (where the sun rises), and His death and resurrection is on the west side of the church (where the sun sets).

Clockwise from top-left: cathedral; marriage of Joseph and Mary; nativity; fleeing to Egypt

The cypress tree represents eternal life, and the different fruits represent the twelve months of the year.

Clockwise from top- left: cathedral spirals; crucifixion; cypress tree with fives; fruits on top of arches.

Other Barcelona highlights

Clockwise from left: statue of Columbus; site of the palace of the Spanish Inquisition; Picasso artwork; Roman arch and aqueduct; Arc del Triomf

Next stop: Gibraltar

“Kings of the earth, and all people; princes, and all judges of the earth: both young men, and maidens; old men, and children: let them praise the name of the LORD: for his name alone is excellent; his glory is above the earth and heaven.” Psalm 148:11-13

To reach Malaga from Cadiz, we had to sail through the Straits of Gibraltar, leaving the Atlantic Ocean and entering into the Mediterranean Sea. As we passed through the Straits, just after midnight, there was a lighted sign on a hillside that said “Gibraltar Cliffs.” The photo is not clear, but the large white blur on the right is the sign.

We arrived in the early morning at the Port of Malaga. The skies were clear and blue, and it promised to be a beautiful day for us. We had a 1.5 hour drive to our destination, the city of Granada, so we were among the first to disembark for our tour. We began with a beautiful drive along the shoreline in Malaga. As we left the city and entered the countryside, I couldn’t help but notice that the terrain was very similar to that of southern California. It was dry with small shrubs, a few oaks. As we got farther from Malaga, we entered the agricultural area with orchards of olive and citrus trees, the same kind of scenery I remember seeing on highway 126 through Santa Paula, California. The hills outside of Malaga are covered with olive trees because apparently they grow very well in hilly regions, and Spanish olive oil is highly valued.

Malaga beach (top), countryside (bottom left), olive trees (bottom right)

Granada

Historically, Granada was the last independent kingdom before Spain became a unified country under King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella. Symbolized by the pomegranate, it is bordered by the Sierra Nevada Mountains, making Granada is a popular tourist attraction that nomads once referred to as paradise. Nearly 280,000 people now call Granada home.

The Sierra Nevada mountains can be seen beyond a grove of olive trees.

*Royal Chapel

This is the burial place of King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella. They wanted Granada to be their final resting place because it was their dream that Spain be unified, and Granada was the last independent kingdom.

From top-left, clockwise: Royal Chapel sign, Top of mausoleums, actual remains inside the tomb, Isabella’s crown and scepter

*Cathedral of Granada

It took 200 hundred years to build this cathedral, and as such it has two basic architectural styles: gothic and baroque. Its construction was commissioned by Philip, the grandson of Ferdinand and Isabella, and its interior looks more like a palace than a traditional cathedral.

Cathedral exterior

Clockwise from top-left: King Ferdinand (father of Spain) praying below Adam (father of mankind); stained glass; marble pillars; Queen Isabella (mother of Spain) praying below Eve (mother of mankind); altar area; alcove

*Alhambra

This was a fort built by the Moors around the 9th and 10th centuries to protect their communities. It is on a hill that overlooks the city of Granada in the Muslim quarter of the city.

The steep, cobblestoned road we climbed to get a view of the fortress led us by a variety of shops and sights. Arabic influence was evident throughout this section of the city in the streets, shops, and architecture.

Clockwise from top-left: steep, cobbled road up to viewpoint; restaurant; shot; detail of cobblestoned road; another shop

Next stop: Barcelona, Spain

“For the preaching of the cross is to them that perish foolishness; but unto us which are saved it is the power of God.” 1 Corinthians 1:18

Cadiz was founded 100-150 years before Christ by Phoenicians. Today, there are about 200,000 people. It is located on a peninsula where two bridges link city to mainland. We crossed the 3 km long Constitution Bridge as we left the peninsula and headed toward Seville. Spain is a land heavily influenced by the Muslims, who had been on the Iberian peninsula for 800 years until Christians conquered the land.

Seville, Spain

Today the area around Seville is known for its sherry wine. It’s quality doesn’t depend on the year, but rather upon the taste of the “mother of the wine.” The oldest wine in the wine cellar is the “mother” and is mixed with the younger wines when they are being made. The darker the wine, the sweeter it is.

*In preparation for the Exposition of 1929, countries that participated built elaborate buildings representing themselves. Those buildings still remain, and many now are used as cultural centers for those individual countries.

*Casa de Pilatos – Pilate’s house

This was not actually Pilate’s house since it was built in the 15th century. Instead, the son of wealthy family visited Jerusalem and wanted to build this palace to commemorate the “stations of the Cross.” Pilate’s house (Praetorium) in Jerusalem is the first “station of the Cross,” which this palace was to represent. The architecture is similar to Arabic architecture (wood-plaster- mosaics) except instead of mosaics, ceramic tiles are used to cover the walls.

Clockwise from upper left: metalwork archway leading to courtyard (center); bust of Vespasian; Roman helmet; architecture; chapel; Spanish garden; goddess Artemis; Italian garden; courtyard.

*Cathedral de Sevilla

Currently being renovated, this is the world’s largest gothic cathedral, and it is here that the archbishop lives.

The bottom left photo is Christopher Columbus’ tomb. His bones are not buried in the crypt. Instead, they are being carried above it because Columbus stayed he did not want to be entombed.

*The Old Town

We strolled through the old section of Seville, through narrow and cobbled streets. Lots of little shops, places to eat, and town squares. We stopped for lunch at the San Marco restaurant.

Top: profiteroles with chocolate sauce

Bottom left: pork with raisin gravy and scalloped potatoes. Bottom right: salad

*Spanish Square

This was built by Spain for the Exposition of 1929. Each arch represents a state of Spain, and their names are in the ceramic tiles under their arch. The water represents the Atlantic Ocean, and the bridges connects Spain with the North American continent.

Today we walked about four miles. The weather was in the low 90’s, and it was a bit humid, but all in all, it was a very interesting and educational day.

Tomorrow: Granada, Spain

“The Lord is not slack concerning his promise, as some men count slackness; but is longsuffering to us-ward, not willing that any should perish, but that all should come to repentance.” 2 Peter 3:9

I was so excited to wake up to my first glimpses of Africa! As we neared the port, I was somewhat surprised to see it looked like any other port city! (I don’t really know what I expected. Images of bedouins riding in camel caravans come to mind!) Morocco is on the northwestern coast of Africa, and at its nearest point, it is only 8 miles from Europe. It’s climate is a mild Mediterranean one with average summer temperatures hovering around the 80 degree mark. Casablanca was founded in the 10th century by the Berbers. Claimed initially by Portugal, it was also influenced by the Spanish, who helped rebuild the city after a devastating earthquake in Lisbon, Portugal in 1755 created aftershocks which extensively damaged Casablanca. It became a French protectorate in the early 20th century and grew quickly. Today it is Morocco’s largest city, with a blend of French and Moroccan influences.

Hassan II Mosque

It was built by, and named for the father of present king of Morocco.

Architecture: Spanish Moorish architecture has three characteristics. 1. The cedar wood that is used is from the Atlas Mountains in northern Morocco is at the top of the walls. 2. Walls are plaster and the designs must be etched by artisans while the plaster is still wet, and that is below the cedar. 3. Mosaics are at the bottom of the walls, and there are Arabic calligraphic writings also near the wall bottoms. These writings are verses from Quran.

No statues or figurines are allowed in the mosque. Italian marble and chandeliers are used throughout the mosque. There is a 20,000 square meter prayer area that can accommodate 25,000 people at one time. It has an ornate retractable ceiling, and a canal through which water flows. Water is known as the “Fountain of Life.” The main cedar door is where the Iman (religious leader stands), and it is in the direction of Mecca. Prayer call is 5 times a day. You can see the speakers that announce the call to prayer in the photo below.

Below the prayer room are 41 fountains. Water in the lotus-shaped fountains is used to cleanse oneself before prayer. Muslims repeat the washing three times before going to prayer.

The Moroccan flag is red with a five pointed star. The points on the star present the 5 pillars of Islam and the 5 calls to prayer.

Our next stop was the Merkat, a restaurant on the Atlantic shore. Here we sampled Moroccan mint tea and cookies.

We ran across the street to visit a McDonalds and it was practically deserted! Why? This is the month of Ramadan when Muslims fast from sunrise to sunset!

Our Lady of Lourdes Catholic Church

Religious tolerance, that is freedom of religion, is guaranteed in the Moroccan constitution. Most of the population follows Islam, while less than 1% are Christian.

Habous Quarter

The government office building sign is written in Arabic, Berber dialect, and French. The Berber language was only oral, so the written is considered a “borrowed” language. This was a courthouse; now it is the city hall government offices. A portrait of Mohammed VI, current king of Morocco is in the entrance. The architecture is the same as the Hassan II mosque with cedar walls, carved plaster, and mosaics. There is an outer patio with a few orange trees and room to stroll.

Morocco is a constitutional monarchy. However, unlike most constitutional monarchies, the Moroccan king has real powers with the right to veto any legislation, therefore it is not a true constitutional monarchy. There is a two house parliament with members who serve for 5 or 6 years depending on whether they were elected to the upper or lower parliament, and there is a prime minister, who is chosen by king from the majority political party.

Souvenir Shopping

We finished the day buying a few souvenirs, and then our guide made a very special stop for us. He stopped at the Casablanca train station so five of us on the bus could get a Starbucks mug! That was such an unexpected blessing!

Next stop: Cadiz, Spain

“How beautiful upon the mountains are the feet of him that bringeth good tidings, that publisheth peace; that bringeth good tidings of good, that publisheth salvation; that saith unto Zion, Thy God reigneth!” Isaiah 52:7

This is another Portuguese archipelago, of which Funchal is the capital of the island of Madeira. 256,000 people live here. 70% of population lives in the southern part of the island because it is less steep, has mild seas, and is more wooded. 20% of the island is covered with forest. Water is deliverered throughout the island via lavadas. Lavadas are man-made channels for water, which are very important for agriculture.

Camacha

In this village, we stopped at a wicker factory and then walked around the town square which was full of beautiful flowers. More than 200 types of daisies!

Pico do Arieiro

Our next stop was the highest peak on Madeira at 1,880 meters (6,000+ ft). The view was spectacular, and we could see both sides of the island. On the way up, we could see our ship docked in Funchal.

Casa de Abrigo do Poiso

We stopped for lunch at Casa de Abrigo do Poiso, a restaurant on the mountain. Appetizer: garlic bread, olives, cheese. 1st course: green cabbage soup with sausage. Side dishes: French fries and polenta, assorted veggies. 2nd course: local fish and steak. Madeira is famous for its wine, and there was an opportunity to sample a glass if one wished to do so. (I didn’t taste the wine, but the Coke Zero was awesome!) After lunch , a Portuguese folk dancing group entertained us.

Carreiros do Monte

In 1850, the wicker basket toboggan transport began. It’s like a large wicker basket on wooden runners. Two men control the toboggan with ropes and special rubber-tired shoes.

Left: Just boarded our toboggan. Right top and bottom: On our way down 2 km of road shared by toboggans and autos! It was an exciting ride Would I do it again? Absolutely!!

Flower Festival in Funchal

Blandy’s Madeira Wine Lodge

Our last stop was a winery. It was formally a monastery. Today, the wine lodge makes four types of wines: bual, sercial, malvasta, and verdelho. We saw a 17th century wine press that belonged to the Jesuits who came over as well as a wine bag that held 40 liters. Then we saw the “nursery” where the newest wines were stored in barrels. We also saw the huge barrels that held older wines. These wines are actually heated for a period of time before being bottled, and once bottled, they do not change their taste over time.

Our next stop is Casablanca, Morocco!

“Let them give glory unto the LORD, and declare his praise in the islands.” Isaiah 42:12

Have you ever wondered where the Azores are? The Azorean islands are an archipelago about 800 miles west of Lisbon, Portugal, and they are composed of nine different islands. Mainly volcanic rock, the soil is very fertile, and the Azores are known for growing tea and tobacco. The Azores have the only commercial tea plantation in Europe. They also cultivate pineapples in greenhouses here, and they are known for their pineapple liqueurs. Most of the coastline of these Portuguese-owned islands is composed of volcanic lava. Geothermal energy is the primary source of energy, followed by wind, water, and lastly fossil fuel. 60% of their energy is renewable.

We arrived at São Miguel, the largest island in the archipelago, in its harbor Ponta Delgado.

Cows are plentiful, and dairy products are the primary industry of their economy.

Faljã de Baixo

This region is the pineapple growing center. Greenhouses are throughout the city, and they are used because the Azores do not have a tropical climate, but rather a sub-tropical one, therefore it is not hot enough to grow the pineapples in fields. The pineapples grow on bushes and take about 2 years to grow to maturity. They are grown in stages in different greenhouses, including a “smoking” phase that shocks the plant into fruit production, so harvesting occurs at the same time for all of the plants.

Ribeira Grande

This city is located on the opposite side of the island from where we docked. This church, “Our Lady of the Star,” is the main church in Ribeira Grande. 95% of the Azoreans are Catholic.

The Azores was our first stop after crossing the Atlantic. The weather was great, and the seas were smooth throughout the crossing. Our next stop will be Madeira, another Portuguese island.